Prince Rainier III's Monaco

By RICK STEVES

April 15, 2005 - Some residents of the Riviera - the rich stretch of real estate overlooking the Mediterranean - experienced a loss this week. The dazzlingly minuscule country of Monaco is one of the area's crown jewels, and after 56 years of royal rule, its prince passed away.

Prince Rainier III led his tiny nation through times of great prosperity with the help of its famous casino (and tax incentives). Visitors today get to enjoy the fruits of Prince Rainier's labor, sunning and funning along Monaco's sparkling shores.

The romance and marriage of the American actress Grace Kelly to Prince Rainier added to Monaco's fairy-tale aura. Grace Kelly first came to Monaco to star in the 1955 Hitchcock film "To Catch a Thief." She later married her prince and adopted the country, but died tragically in a car wreck in
1982.

Despite overdevelopment, high prices, and all-to-wall daytime tourists, Monaco is still a Riviera must. But don't look for anything too deep in this glittering tax haven. Two-thirds of its 30,000 residents live here because there is no income tax - leaving fewer than 10,000 true Monegasques.

Most of Monaco's sights are in the district called Monaco-Ville, packed within a few Disney-esque blocks. The prince's palace, where he lived, is here, on a site where a medieval castle once stood. The prince's son Albert - who succeeded him as ruler - will continue to live here as well. (Rainier'
s other children, princesses Stephanie and Caroline, stay just down the main street.) Palace guards protected the prince 24/7, and they staged a Changing of the Guard ceremony with all the pageantry of an important nation.

Prince Rainier's great-grandfather, Albert I, had a keen interest in oceanographic studies - which makes sense, considering the location of his principality. In 1910, Albert I founded a museum of oceanography, and this impressive cliff-hanging building remains a monument to his enthusiasm for things from the sea. Jacques Cousteau directed the aquarium for 17 years, and today the institute is
known as the Cousteau Aquarium. Along with displays on Mediterranean and tropical fish, the museum shows models of Albert I and his beachcombers hard at work.

The country's big draw is the Monte Carlo Casino. In the mid-1800s, olive groves stood here. Then, with the construction of this casino, spas, and easy road and train access, one of Europe's poorest countries ended up on the Grand Tour map - the place for the vacationing aristocracy to play. Even commoners can strut inside the casino to the sumptuous atrium, and if you're over 21, you can get as far as the slot machines. (You'll need dressy attire to go any further, especially after 8 p.m.)

The scene, flooded with camera-toting tourists during the day, is great at night. This opulent casino makes its message clear: Monaco means business. As Monaco's ruling CEO, Prince Rainier
understood the necessity of high finance. But he also knew that good tax rates aren't the only reason thrill-seekers flock to this small waterfront paradise. Then, as now, they come for the glamorous Monaco mystique.

Le Grand Prix Automobile de Monaco

Each May (May 19-22 in 2005), the Grand Prix of Monaco focuses the world's attention on this little country. The car race started as an enthusiasts' car rally by the Automobile Club of Monaco (run by
the same group, 90 years later). By Grand Prix standards, it's an unusual course, running through the streets sardined between mountains and sea. The race lasts 78 laps, and whoever is still standing at the end wins (most don't finish). More than 150,000 people attend the gala event; like the nearby film festival in Cannes, it involves parties on yachts and at four-star hotels.

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